History of Ukrainian Alcohol (Horilka, Vodka)

THE ORIGIN OF VODKA

The language of early science or rather its precursor alchemy was Latin, and
the early names for distilled alcohol were in Latin, although the word 'alcohol'
itself is from the Arabic 'al-kuhl'. Arabs from the 7th century borrowed the technology
of the conquered Hellinistic east, and carried it to western Europe. The Mongols
also thrust westward, and it is recorded that Ogendai Khan, Genghis Khan's successor,
drank himself to death in 1241, thus we can say that it was alcohol that saved western
Europe from the Mongol threat. It does not appear though, that Mongolian or Chinese
distillation techniques influenced Rus' (now modern Ukraine, Belarus, European Russia).
Though the geographical distribution of certain foods, supports the view that the
Mongolians did introduce Ukrainians to pickled cabbage, dumplings ('varenyky'),
noodles ('lokshyna'), and fermented milk.

In western Europe, distilling alcohol from wine was practised in Italy in the
11th century, but generally this was done on a small scale and secretly by alchemists,
physicians, monks and apothecaries. This professional secret started to spread as
early as the 14th century, and it was only after 1500 that distilled alcohol became
more widely available. Up to 1478, the city of Kaffa in the Crimea was a Genoese
trading colony not subordinated to the Crimean Khan, but it does not appear that
alcohol was distilled there. There were Greeks also in the Crimea and therefore
grape wine. One can speculate also, that Italian pasta and coffee had its origins
in the Crimea, as these were known to the Crimean Tartars. Also Ukrainian slaves
were shipped all over the Mediterranean basin from here, and the actual word slave
is from medieval Latin 'sclavus' or Slav. In the Balkans, the influence was from
Turkey, and the southern Slav 'rakija' for distilled alcohol comes from the Turkish
'raki', which itself comes from the Arabic 'arak' ,which is still popular in Lebanon.

From the late 1600's to the 1700's we see a rise in the consumption of distilled
alcohol as a recreational beverage. Distilled alcohol reached Poland probably from
Germany in the 15th century and it is recorded that the term 'wodka' was known from
at least 1534. The Baltic city of Danzig (now Polish Gdansk), was a member of the
Hanseatic League, and the first distillery was established there by a Dutchman in
the 16th century, while in Baltic Estonia, written records indicate the distillation
of alcohol even in 1485. Distilled alcohol reached Ukraine towards the end of the
15th century. The first recorded distilleries were in Sokal', Hrabivec', Tushivci,
and from these western towns they spread eastward. In Pamva Berynda's 1672 Lexicon,
there are entries for 'vodka do lichen'ja ochij' (vodka to cure eyes) and 'vodka
palenaja abo kroplja, kaplja abo malaja'.

It is believed that distilled alcohol spread from Poland via Lithuania, Belarus
and Ukraine to Russia, although some Russians dispute this. But the very word 'vodka'
entered the Russian language as late as the 19th century and before that, the Russian
language had no 'vodka' word. The term used in Russia was 'vino' (wine) which was
normally used for the imported grape wine ,and was transposed onto the then new
distilled alcohol, which most probably was initially imported from Baltic distilleries.
It could also come from the 'wein' part of the German 'branntwein' which passed
into the Polish 'gorzale wino' or the Ukrainian 'harjache vyno' / 'palene vyno'.
In 1886, 92.5% of spirit imported to St. Petersburg was Baltic in origin, mostly
Estonian. Also at that time, Poland belonged to the Russian empire.

An obsevation of the early names for distilled alcohol indicates that modern
European terms are derivatives of:

'Aqua vitae' (water of life) for a 90%abv,

'Aqua ardens (burning water)' for a 60%abv,

'Spiritus vini' (wine spirit) for distilled wine

'Aqua ardens' and 'spiritus vitae' has given us:

Italian - acqua vita

French - eau-de-vie

Gaelic - uisce beatha, uisgebaugh

English - whisky/whiskey ( corruption of the Gaelic term)

Polish - okowita, wodka, wodeczka

Estonian -viin

Finnish - viina

Ukrainian - okovyta, vodka

Danish & Swedish - akvavit

Norwegian - aquavit, akevitt

'Aqua ardens' and 'spiritus vini' or a combination from both, has given us:

Italian - acqua ardente

French - eau ardens, esprit-de-vin

Spanish - aguardiente

German - gebrannte wasser, weingeist, weinbrand

Dutch - brandewijn, korenwijn (grain wine)

English - brandy (corruption of the Dutch term)

Swedish - brannvin

Danish - braendevin, sprit

Polish - gorzale wino, winiak, spirytus

Ukrainian - harjache vyno, palene vyno, spyrt

Russian - khljebnoje vino (grain wine), spirt

Czech & Slovak - palenka

In Poland the terms 'okowita' (for a triple distilled alcohol) and 'gorzale wino'
were used. 'Gorzale wino' was shortened to 'gorzalka' ,which in western Ukraine
was rendered into Ukrainian as 'horilka' and which is still the standard term. In
Poland in the 18th century, the terms 'okowita' and 'gorzalka' were replaced by
the term 'wodka'.

The traditional beverages in Ukraine prior to the appearance of distilled alcohol
were 'med' (mead), 'pyvo' (hopped beer), 'braha' (unhopped millet beer), 'kvas'
(generic name for fermented beverages, usually from fruits, berries and beets),
'syrivec'' (bread kvas), 'syta' (honey diluted with water), 'uzvar' (fruit compote),
'berezovyj and klenovyj sik' (fermented birch and maple sap). The term 'vyno' (wine)
was used for imported grape wine, and being imported only the affluent could afford
it. In early Ukrainian folk sources, the hyphenated form 'med-pyvo' (mead-beer)
denoted an abundance of alcoholic beverages, but with the decline of village brewing
due to a state sponsored monopoly on alcohol, and large scale commercial breweries,
this was later changed to 'med-vyno' (mead-wine) and 'med-horilka' (mead-vodka).
The 'vyno' in 'med-vyno', probably refers to the term 'harjache' or 'palene vyno'
as ordinary villages could not normally afford imported grape 'vyno'. Good quality
horilkas were given the terms 'pinna', 'tretjoprobna', 'perehonna', while poor quality
horilkas were given the sarcastic terms 'syvukha' (Polish 'siwucha'), 'mokrukha',
'chykyldykha'. 'Shpahativka', 'spotykach', 'hostrohljad' apparently were reserved
for stronger variants.

Political and economic factors influenced the growth of distilleries in Halychyna
(Galicia) in the 18th century. The partition of Poland cut off former markets and
created the need to use surplus grain, previously exported. In 1836 there were 4,981
distilleries in Austrian controlled western Ukraine, while in the Kiev gubernia
there was one 'shynka' (tavern) for every 597 inhabitants. Alcohol abuse was a sympton
of the opressive political situation, but it did fill the state coffers handsomely.
Ivan Kotljarevskyj in his 'Enejida' mentions 'slyvjanka', 'prosta horilka', 'perehinna',
'tretjoprobna', 'tjutjunkova' (tobacco flavored), 'pinna', 'kalhanka', 'med', 'pyvo',
'braha', 'syrivec''. He also mentions other flavoring botanicals - juniper, star-anise,
aniseed, pepper and saffron. 'Kalhanivka' is a horilka that has been flavored with
the root of the herb 'kalhan' (aka 'perstach prjamostojachyj'). Its English name
is tormentil (Tormentilla erecta or Potentilla tormentilla). It was a popular horilka
in the past, as tormentil was regarded as a cure for many ailments, especially haemorrhaging,
and so for fighting cossacks it was useful.

UKRAINIAN ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES

Distilled alcohol ('horilka') appeared in Ukraine in the 15th century. Prior
to this alcoholic beverages were produced by natural fermentation. Popular beverages
were 'syrivec'' (bread kvas), fruit or berry kvas, birch or maple sap kvas, beet
kvas, 'pyvo', (hopped beer) 'braha' (unhopped beer) and 'syta' (unfermented mead
must) and the fermented 'med' (mead). 'Kvas' and 'med' were common beverages in
Kievan Rus', 'kvas' being an everyday drink, while 'med' was for special occasions
such as religious feast days ('kanunyj med') and weddings.

A Rus' chronicle mentions that mead was brewed for the funeral wake which Princess
Ol'ha held for her husband. With the introduction of distillation flavored horilkas
appeared. In the 19th century a 'nalyvka' was made by steeping fruit in 25% horilka,
while a 'nastojanka' ('nastojka') was made by steeping herbs and spices in a similar
strength horilka. Later, when it beame generally affordable, sugar was added for
sweetness. The term 'nalyvka' was also later used for a type of sweet fruit wine
made by fermenting fruit and berries without added water, but with sufficient added
sugar to provide a residual sweetness. This was naturally weakly alcoholic, and
to increase the strength, horilka was added. A stronger variant, was called 'spotykach',
the name derived from the Ukrainian verb 'to tumble'. The term 'mohorych' was used
for an alcoholic beverage that was drunk to seal or ratify and agreement, similar
to the French term 'ratafia'.

Flavored horilkas:

The horilka that was affordable to the villagers even in the 19the century was of
a poor quality and a low strength (about 25% by volume), and so it was generally
flavored. Two popular flavored horilkas made by infusion (warm steeping) were 'varenukha'
which was favored by women, and 'zapikanka' which was favored by men as it contained
cayenne pepper. A 19th century source does not mention the addition of sugar, only
the addition of honey to 'varenukha'.

Methods used to produce flavored horilkas:

1) Infusion (warm steeping of fruits, berries, herbs and spices). Originally only
honey was added. Later sugar was used.

2) Maceration (cold steeping of fruits and berries, herbs and spices). A 'nalyvka'
was made using fruits and berries while a 'nastojanka' ('nastojka') was made using
herbs and spices. Originally a 'nalyvka' was made by filling a container 3/4 full
with fruit or berries and covering to the top with horilka. This was allowed to
steep for 2 weeks. Sugar was not added.

3) Addition of pulp from fruits or berries to horilka.

4) Fermentation of fruits and berries and fortification with horilka.

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